Wira Stopping With Engine Running

My Proton Wira Atomatic year 1995 has served me well despite heavy petrol consumption. Two months ago, when I was travelling along the North-South Highway at 115km per hour, there was a very loud humming sound. I later changed the automatic transmission oil, and the sound dissapeared.

But three weeks ago, the car came to a stop with the engine still running. I switched off the engine for a while, and it has not given any trouble since.

I took the car to two mechanics, but they could not find any fault. But after what I told them, they agreed that the auto gearbox is faulty and recommended that it be changed.

1. In your opinion, is the gearbox faulty?
2. Are reconditioned gear box reliable?
3. What will happen if I just leave it alone as it has not given any trouble since?

Reply:
The beauty about automatic gearboxes is that they give you plenty of warning before they die. I think you have a transmission problem that is serious enough to entail a strip down because the warning signs are there. If you continue, it will fail completely and then it may cost you an arm and a leg to fix.

Personally, I do not like to use secondhand automatic transmissions unless there is some form of warranty on the used parts because one never knows the condition of theinternals. I would prefer that the transmission be stripped down and rebuilt. Overhauling an automatic is easier than doing a manual (if one know what he is doing), and if properly rebuilt, will give you many more years of good service.

RM83 A Spark Plug!

I recently bought a used Perdana V6 Year 2000. I want to change the spark plug, but to my horror, it costs RM83 each (meaning RM83 X 6). An authorised Proton service centre could not tell me how frequent should Perdana V6 spark plugs be changed, other than saying the plugs are made of titanium. A friend said the plugs can last between 5-10 years. Can a Perdana use the normal spark plug, other than titanium made?

Reply:
The plugs are a specialised product, and similar plugs are used in other cars. They last about five years or more, and when they fail, the whole module needs to be replaced. Sometimes one can get used units, but like all used parts one can never be sure of the lifetime remaining.

Civic's Grinding Sound

My Honda Civic 1.5 Ferio has a gearbox problem. There's a grinding sound when I put it into "reverse", and it jerks when I put it into "drive". If I slow down to turn, I have to wait for the gears to initiate before pressing the acceleration pedal. If not, the car will jerk.

It is a second hand re-cond car of 10 years, and I bought it last year. My mechanic it is very hard to find a second hand gearboxfor this particular model. The car is still running.

Reply:
I think what you are saying is that the shifting is harsh and it jerks when the gear engages. It does sound like you have a transmission problem and the best thing is to get someone who knows automatics to take the car out for a run and check it out.

I am not too familiar with this model, but I am sure that if you look around, you would be able to get a complete engine transmission unit second hand for your engine compartment. You will need to look for the guys who do such conversions as they are very familiar with this work. The average mechanic would not have the experience to do such conversion if he has not done it before.

Musky Smell

I bought an Avanza auto a month ago. Whenever I switch on the aircon, it emits a strong musky smell. The smell lasts a few second. What's wrong?

Secondly, is it usual for my car to have a "tick tick" sound after I switch off the engine? The sound last for a while.

Reply:
1. Get the service technician to check if the drain hose from the aircon evaporator is clogged or the tray is not angled properly to let the water drain completely. If so, there will be water collection in the drain pan and when you start the engine/air conditioner, this gives the musky smell. After a while the water condensation dries up and the smell dissappears but when the car stops, the water condensation from the evaporator drips into the drain tray where it collects.

2. The "tick tick" sound may be just the exhaust system cooling down and as it does so, it contracts and you get the clicking noise. Nothing to woory about!

Windscreen Woes

Since getting a replacement front windscreen, I haven't been able to get water to bead on it. Water just spreads out evenly, making vision difficult. I've tried Jiff, dishwashing liquid, soap, Autosol, petrol, etc, but to no avail.

Reply:
A lot depends on what caused the condition, and if it is from the wrapping plastic, either petrol or kerosene would clean it off. If that does not work, you will have to start experimenting with different solvents. Try paint thinner as that usually take off most paint-based films. Do not use Autosol or manyabrasive cleaners, as they will leave scratches on the glass.

What a Waste

My Suzuki ERV 1.3 litre (2002) has clocked 83,000km, which mean it's time to have the timing belt changed. I was informed by Suzuki that when I change the timing belt, I should also change the water pump as well because if the water pump need to be replaced (after I changed the timing belt), I will have to replace the timing belt again. But, replacing the water pump, which is still in good working condition, sounds wasteful. Also, is it true that cars which use timing chains instead of timing belt, do not need to have their timing chain replaced.

Reply:
The mechanic may be correct in a way he may have found out in the practice that the water pump usually fails not long after the timing belt is replaced and therefore suggests you replace it at the same time. However, you do not have to replace it as the labour to replace the pump at a later date is not that high and if it is not making any noise and operating perfectly well, I see no reason why you should throw away something that is still good.

Timing chain, being made of steel, tend to last for a very long time and are seldom replaced, at least during the car is with the first owner.

Light Just Doesn't Go Off

My Kancil's door ajar light (the indicator on the dashboard) is on all the time. It happened after I washed the car. Does anybody know where the fuse for that light is? It's quite dim but when I open the door, it brightens up. When I close the door, it is dim again but it won't go off.

Reply:
The door ajar light is wired to the door switches and works by earthing the bulb to the body when the door is opened. What probably happened is the water goes into the contact of the switch of the switch, allowing the indicator bulb to earth to he body and so causing the bulb to glow. You can try spraying WD40 into each of the door switches to displace any water. The reason why the interior light is not coming on is that light requires a higher current through the same switch but probably due to the poor contact, is not sufficiebt to light it. That may be the explanation but the problem is still the water ingress into the contact.

Changing Rear Axle

I drive Mercedes 190E 2L 1991.
1. I have changed the rear axle assmbly (wih a used unit) from the original ratio of 3.23 to 3.27. Is performance affected? Does this affect the car when going uphill? What about fuel consumption?

2. The motor box does not illuminate brightly after I changed to new bulbs and maximised the dinner control knob. Any other way to brigthen it?

3. If I changed from 2.0L to 2.6L, does it really save petrol?

Reply:
1. Theoritically, your hill climbing wil improve with a slightly loss of top end speed. You may find a slight increase in fuel consumption but that would depend a lot on how you drive. As difference in the ratios is not much, you may not even notice any improvement or loss in performance.

2. If by motor box, you mean instrument cluster, you may want to check the earthing of the instrument panel. Sometimes when there is insuffucient earthing, the lights will be dim.

3. Normally a larger capacity engine will give you better consumption if the gear ratio match the engine. In your case I think that if driven correctly and not revving the engine excessively, you should have better consumption. This is only guess and you will need to find out in actual case.

Accelerating Noise

I drive a nine-month 0ld Myvi Automatic. Recently an intermittent noise has developed, and this sound only occurs when I accelerate. It sounds like a fainy metallic whirring noise. I am unable to diagnose the problem, as it does not occur frequently or long enough for the mechanic to listen to it. Otherwise, the car perform normally. Have you ever come across this problem or noise?

Reply:
Based on you information, it is difficult to give you any pointers because it is not clear when this noise occurs and under what circumstances. For example, does the noise occur when you are at low speeds and in top gear or in low gear at high speeds? My feeling is that the problem is in the engine compartment and frankly even technician at the service centre may not be able to pin it down unless he can drive the car under the same conditions to replicate the sound.

Fuel Pump Changed

I changed the fuel pump of my Honda Civic 1.6 (1993) model recently. After changing the fuse, spark plug, and checking the wiring, I still cannot start my car engine.

Reply:
1. Your fuel pump is mechanically operated, if I am not mistaken. And if you could remove the hose connecting it to the carburettor and crank the engine, fuel should flow out. If no fuel flow out, then check the pump or replace it with one that you are sure is working. Also, have you connected back the hoses correctly and not reversed the connections?

2. If there is fuel coming to the carburettor and the engine is cranking but not firing. Check if you have any spark to the spark plugs. An easy way is to pull off one of the spark plug leads and connect it to a spark plug and lay it anywhere on the engine for an earth connection. Crank the engine and see if there is any spark at the plug. If there is not , then you need to check the ignition system, from the ignition switch to the coil and the distributor.

When an engine does not start, you have to sort it out by a process of elimination and do not assume anything. Often when one does some work, one may accidentally disconnect some wire or forget to fit one back and so a systamatic check is necessary to get it started again.

Changing Battery With Engine Running

1. I own a Toyota Vios 1.5E auto (2004 model). I have just replaced the wet battery with a dry battery. But I saw the mechanic change the battery with the engine running at a idle speed. He said if he changed the battery after the engine is switched off, the car would have engine tuning problem and other minor side effects. He added that even on changing a wet battery, he would also have the engine running at idling speed. It seems the latest cars, which have many of their system running on computer circuits and electronic sensors, must be treated this way.

2. I used to disconnect one of the battery car terminals (wet battery) when I did not use it for more than two days (to avoid depolarisation and damage to the battery). Which terminal should be disconnected in term of safety? I always disconnect the (-ve) side.

3. Now that I am using a dry cell battery, and will not be using my car for 10 days next month. Do I need disconnect one of the battery terminals? If i do it, will the problem as in question no.1, surface again after I reconnect the battery?

4. What type of battery (in term of quality and maintenance) is more suitable for cars - wet or dry?

Reply:
1. The standard rule is to turn off the engine and switch off all accessories whenever removing or replacing batteries. One should not have the engine running because if the positive terminal is to touch any part of the battery being replaced, it would short out the alternator and cause severe damage to the coils and diodes, let alone the possibilty of fire.

2. Two days are a short period to disconnect the battery. While I do not disagree with the practice, it is mainly to prevent discharge through the clock and some equipment that may have small current draw and if if left uncharged, the battery could become sulphated. By the way, it makes no difference whether it is a 'wet' or 'dry' battery because there is still sulphuric acid in the battery that would cause sulphation. I think by 'dry' battery, you mean a 'no maintenance' battery. Generally 'no maintenance' battery are sealed so that you do not need to top up with distilled water but if you notice that the electrolyte level is very low, the cells can be opened and topped up.

3. You can remove the battery connection while you are away or even leave it connected because I do not think it would be so weak when you get back as to be unable to start the engine. What is important when you get back is to run the vehicle for some time to charge back the battery.

Stiff Suspension

I own a 1987 Mercedes 190E. A month ago, I changed all the bushes plus the four shock absorbers and its mountings which cost me a little more than RM4,000. The shock absorbers a bBilstein 36 1389. I am unhappy as the ride is bumpy and get a thud noise when going over depressions or potholes. My feeling is that the shock absorbers may be of the hard type or the coil spring are "dead". The mechanic said that he has used the standard shock absorber for the car and it might be that the coils also need changing. What is your opinion?

Reply:
You did not mention what shock absorbers were fitted to the front but I will assume that they are also Bilstein. The number that you have given, 36-1389 is for the rear shock absorbers and is actually a heavy duty unit and that maybe the reason why you feel that the ride is bumpy. I think you should be using the "comfort" specification which is:
Front: F4-V36-0199-HO
Back: F4-b36-1405-HO

I do not think the standard shock are heavy duty units and there is no need to replace the springs. I think the real problem is that the shock are too hard.

Right Tyre Formula

Appreciate if you could provide the formula for the 3% rule on changing tyre size. I remembered that you had published this formula sometime back but unortunately I did noyt keep it.

I wanted to change my tyre from 175/65 R14 to 185/60 R14 or 195/60 R14 but i can't remember the formula to check whether this is within the 3% rule.

Reply:
To calculate the overall diameter of the tyre:
The formula is: (D x 25.4) + 2(S x A)
D= Rim diameter in inches
S= Tyre width in mm
A= Aspect ratio in decimals

If the tyre is 165/65 R14:
The overall diameter would be (14 x 25.4) + 2(165 x 0.65) = 570mm

For the 195/60 R14
The overall diameter would then be (14 x 25.4) + 2(195 x 0.60) = 589mm

The difference is 19mm which is 3.33%, a bit over the recommended 3%.

Mystery Jerk

My Sunny 5-speed manual jerks a lot. Here's a history of the repair and modification done.

1. Originl E13 engine upgraded to E15 complete with gearbox in 1999.
2. Changed to a new clutch kit including clutch bearing, clutch plate and cover in 2002.
3. Changed to electronic ignition system including ignition coil.
4. Changed to a new carburettor with auto choke in 2005.
5. Did a top overhaul in 2006 (due to blown head gasket and water sipping into the engine). Did a pressure test too.
6. Changed all four shock absorbers and springs, and front right and rear right lower arm bushes.
7. Changed three of five engine mountings (right gearbox and firewall mountings).
8. Changed to new spark plug cables (five cables)
9. Changed to a new fuel filter.
10. Tried Bosch and NGK spark plugs. Now using Bosch.

When I let off the accelerator during slow driver (especially in 1st or 2nd gear) the car jerks two to three times. The problem occurs even when in 3rd, 4th or 5th gears, but the jerks isn't as bad. I tested my friend's Sunny (1.3) and to my surprise there was no jerk at all. The mechanics have no idea what is causing it.

There is another problem. Sometimes when I open the air-filter pod cover, there will be some engine oil inside the pod. I presume this is deposited from the hose connecting the air-filter pod to the engine valce cover. Why does this happen?

Reply:
If I read you right, the jerking is not caused by carburetion but rather there is a 'clunk' or juddering whenever you depress the accelerator. If that is so, I would look at all engine mountings again and the front and rear 'buffers' or stabilisers for the engine/transmission assembly. There should not be any noticeable movement of the engine/transmissiona ssembly if one rocks the engine back and forth and left and right. If there is movement , tha could be reason for your 'clunking' and you need to check all the mountings especially the ones that were replaced. The reason is that these mountings are supposed to be fitted in a certain position to take the weight of the engine and torsional movement of the engine on acceleration and deceleration. If not fitted correctly, it can collapse, resulting in plenty of engine movement. Check the front and rear buffers for any cracks or signs of collapsing. You may have to replace the mountings if they show signs of wear or collapse. You should use original parts and not replacement units as some of the replacement parts do not use the correct rubber and are too soft and collapse after some time or are affected by oil, etc.

2. The hose connected to the valve cover is to recirculate the oil fumes from the engine so that they get burnt up in the combustion process. If there is a lot of oil in the air cleaner housing, it could mean that the pistons and rings are worn, and combustion pressure is blowing past the pistons and coming through from the crankcase.

High Coolant Usage

Some problem is causing me to replenish the coolant of my Naza Ria every fortnight, which I find is very irregular. The authorised service centre did not give me any satisfactory answer.. irregular diagnosistic, faulty gasket, and so on. After I lodged a report, the engine is now due for a complete check-up, pending confirmation from Naza.

Secondly, I can hear some noise occasionally fom the engine while driving. My wife is driving the car to Malacca for outstation work. I will send the car for a complete engine check-up whether or not I get an approval from Naza.

Reply:
High coolant consumption does not necessarily mean there is an engine problem but it needs to be investigated. If the basic checks like leaks and radiator cap replacement do not solve the problem, then a proper diagnostic check is needed to determine if there is cylinder head leakage, i.e coolant leaking into the combustion chambers. You can also check with a dipstick to see if there is any indiaction of water droplets on the stick or the oil becoming milky.

Regarding the engine noise, it is difficult to give you an idea, as you need to actually drive the vehicle. Your suggestion to get the engine checked is correct, but make sure it is done by someone who knows what he is doing, preferably the franchise holders themselves.